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V-@��y"@6�����d�m INSTALLATION OF A REMOTE FUEL FILTER FOR K1200LT.
The manual states that the fuel filter should be replaced at 40,000kms, or sooner, depending upon the state of the fuel used by the motorcycle. Due to the location of the fuel filter itself (within the fuel tank), plus my lack of garage space in which to pull apart Beryl Beemer, I trundled along to 81,000kms before thinking I may be pushing my luck a bit too far. Below is an account of basically removing the tupperware, fuel tank, fuel pump/filter etc etc and replacing the existing fuel filter with one installed beneath the pillion seat. The time taken to do this initial job was about 9 hours, all being on the front driveway, �..to change the filter now would take approx 15 minutes max.
Take this information as it is intended, just as a �heads up� on what to expect and as an extra �helping hand�, nothing more.
There are probably numerous other well documented procedures on removal of the tupperware, this is my version to add to the collection.
Tupperware fixing screws I term as being either Torx long (TL), Torx short (TS), Allen head long (AL), or Allen head short (AS).
Materials/Tools used: 3m length of 5/16th ID dia fuel hose @ $7:39/m
Ford/Nissan/Holden fuel filter Z200 @ $14:49 ea
6 fuel hose 6-9mm SS clamps @ $1:29 ea
Solid hydraulic line @ free from local garage
Refrigeration insulation tubing �handytube� @ $5/length
Numerous cable ties
�cheese dip� containers and lids (5 off), minus cheese dip, container lids marked �A� to �E�, used for holding screws.
Metric allen keys
Torx rightangle tool from toolkit
Cordless screwdriver with torx bit (optional)
NOTE $$ are Oz,�..x 0.6 for $$USA
Tupperware Removal:
1) Remove RHS black plastic wing cover 1 x TL at front, 1 x TS at rear .screws in container A
Remove RHS wing skirt cover, 2 x AL front and middle, 1 x TL at rear..screws in container A
Remove LHS black plastic wing cover 1 x TL at front, 1 x TS at rear�..screws in container A
Remove LHS wing skirt cover, 2 x AL front and middle, 1 x TL at rear...screws in container A
Remove reversing lever 1 x T, ���..���������...lever and screw in container A
Remove LHS lower side fairing 3 x TL front and middle, 3 x TS rear by reversing lever and bottom of fairing, ��������������������������.screws in container B
Remove 3 x TL that attach LHS fairing to front skirt cover, top middle and low, plus the 2 x AL that attach LHS fairing to front skirt cover��������������.screws in container B
Remove the 3 SS flat washers where the 3 x TL are used in part �6� and place in container B
Unclip the power outlet connector wiring from behind side fairing.
Remove RHS lower side fairing 3 x TL front and middle, 3 x TS rear and bottom of fairing, ���������������������������������.screws in container B
Unclip the power outlet cable wiring from behind fairing if additional outlet installed.
Both RHS side lower fairing and front skirt cover can now be removed
Remove the 3 SS flat washers from rubber holders where the 3 x TL were and ��.place in container B
Now is a good time to change the spark plugs if necessary. BMW recommend change at 20,000kms, I change at 40,000kms�.No noticeable wear even at this interval.
Remove RHS indicator housing, unplug bulb holder housing, 1 x Philips ����.screw in container B
Remove LHS indicator housing, unplug bulb holder housing, 1 x Philips ����..screw in container B
Remove 2 x AS for �glove box� catch lid, closest to top each side, ������..screws in container C
Remove glove box catch plate by sliding catch plate towards rider seat
Remove LHS mirror pod by �gentle� tap
Remove LHS acrylic fin under mirror by 1 x TS at front, 2 x TL middle and rear, ..screws in container C
Remove 1 x AS bottom hole position in glove box location for LHS high side fairing���������������������������...���screw in container D
Remove 2 x TS in indicator housing for LHS high side fairing��������.screws in container D
Remove 3 x TL for LHS high side fairing in �wing� area����������.screws in container D
Remove 1 x TS for LHS high side fairing in glove box top hole position...����screw in container D
Remove 1 x TL for LHS high side fairing under seat joining to rear part�.���..screw in container D
Remove 1 x TS under LHS fin area for high side fairing�����������screw in container D
Gently prize out spigot from rubber bushing by LHS foot area for side fairing
Lift side fairing upwards to dis-enguage from top fairing
Remove the 3 x SS flat washers from the wing area where the 3 x TL were������.in container D
Remove RHS mirror pod by �gentle� tap
Remove RHS acrylic fin under mirror by 1 x TS at front, 2 x TL middle and rear�screws in container C
Do parts �21� through to �29� for the RHS����������������screws in container D
Remove radio stingray controller by LHS 2 x TL front and middle, 1 x TS rear�screws in container E
Remove radio stingray controller by RHS 2 x TL front and middle, 1 x TS rear�screws in container E
The 2 x TS screws at the rear goes in the middle hole either side of the catch plate/lock location.
Unclip/disconnect wiring from stingray going to the rear, plus 3 connectors at LHS front
Remove fuel cap and pull off the rubber boot, removing overflow pipe from rubber boot corner. This allows you to clean underneath the rubber boot
Disconnect rider seat heater control wiring from plug/socket connection
Cut two cable ties on LHS that hold cables for radio coax, speaker wiring, seat heater attached to seat bridge framework.
Remove the 2 x AS at front of seat bridge by steering head, LHS and RHS ��.place in container E
Remove the 2 x Allen head in RHS seat bridge, long screw goes to the front RHS part ��������������������������������place in container E
Remove 1 x Allen head on LHS holding seat bridge�����������.place in container E
Remove seat bridge complete with rider seat
Remove aluminium spacer and rubber washer part from fuel tank at RHS knee allen head screw area������������������������������.place in container E
Remove 1 x Allen head on LHS by knee area holding the fuel tank to frame, tank will drop down slightly, pull off aluminium spacer and rubber washer part associated with this allen head screw����������������������������.��place in container E
Disconnect fuel tank level sensor wiring from top of fuel tank
Disconnect two drain/vent hoses at front of fuel tank RHS by pulling apart �through� connectors
Disconnect fuel pump wiring by connector beneath RHS lowest part of fuel tank, tank will lift up slightly to allow better access to this area
Unscrew the SS hose clips for the fuel delivery lines at base of fuel tank. Have container beneath RHS wing area ready to capture excess fuel from the tank from the �return� line hose
Remove fuel tank by sliding backwards, off from the rubber mounts. There are two rubber bushes located in the knee area where the allen head screws were removed, which need to be in these holes prior to installing the tank on the bike.
Upend fuel tank ready to remove the fuel pump assembly.
Using �white out� or other suitable marker, locate where the large castle nut (that holds the fuel pump in the tank) is tightened to against the tank. There is also an arrow mark on the fuel pump base that aligns with an arrow on the tank. The two fuel lines are marked either �V� or �R�. �V� is the supply line coming from the pump and internal filter. �R� is the return line from the fuel rail back into the tank. It would be the return line that you will have drained the tank by in part �48�
If you do not have the correct tool to loosen the castle nut, as I do not, use a drift and hammer to tap the nut around. Use different ridges on the nut to �share the load� when tapping loose.
Remove fuel pump and filter assembly from tank
Pull off the internal filter and hoses from pump and delivery line.
Cut 300mm from new fuel hose, and using two SS clamps connect the two lines together where the filter went
Verify which of the two delivery lines on the base exterior is the �supply� line from the pump/filter.
Re install fuel pump/hose back in tank, seat rubber boot seal, align arrows and tighten castle nut by tapping around the spigots gently to where they were originally with the �white out� marks.
Right side up the tank, plug the �R� fuel line and put some fuel in tank to verify it does not leak
Remove RHS rear pillion footpeg bracket 3 x Allen head bolts, leave bolts in bracket plate
Remove RHS rear fairing part by 3 x TS�������������.���screws in container E
Remove pillion seat by 2 x allen head screws������������.��.screws in container E
Run new fuel delivery line from where the base of the tank sits, to follow path of rear brake reservoir hose when alongside the rear suspension, up to beneath the RHS of the pillion seat
Using new SS clamp connect new fuel filter to fuel hose, note direction of flow through fuel filter
Run 2nd fuel hose line from the fuel filter back to the fuel tank pump area
Cable tie fuel lines, using insulation hose over fuel hose, as vibration isolator
Cable tie fuel filter, also with refrigeration pipe insulation sponge for vibration isolation
Ensure rubber bushes in part �49� are installed, as in the �tank to frame�, reinstall fuel tank back on bike
Drain tank again by removing plug from �R� line and then connect �R� fuel line back to it�s original hose using new SS fuel clamp
Connect hose line in part �62� using new SS clamp to the hose connected to the �V� hose connector via the existing �through� connector
Allow sufficient length on hose coming back from the new fuel filter to connect to the hose that goes to the fuel rail to avoid kinking line.
Use small length of solid hydraulic line obtained free from garage and new SS clamps to connect these two fuel lines together
Connect fuel pump wiring together
Add some fuel back into tank
Switch on ignition, verifying fuel pump operates and start motor
Now is a great time in which to change that engine coolant
Reassemble bike by reversing steps
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